INCI Names - General cosmetic safety

Everything you want to know about cosmetic INCI names – the purpose, finding the correct one, structure of a name, legal useage

What is an INCI name?

An INCI (pronounced ‘inky’) name, which stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, is a standardized and systematic name used to identify cosmetic ingredients. These names are developed and published by the US Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) but INCI names are used throughout the world (note the ‘international’ part of the name). However, it is essential to note that just because an ingredient has an INCI name does not guarantee it is legal, safe, or permitted for use.

Finding an INCI name:

In the EU/UK, the official source for obtaining INCI names is the published Glossary: Commission Decision (EU) 2019/701. Additionally, there is a useful searchable online database called CosIng (Cosmetic Ingredients). This database provides not only the INCI name but also other identifiers for the ingredient, such as CAS number and EINECS number, along with information about its inclusion in any of the annexes of the Cosmetic Regulation. Although CosIng is generally reliable and helpful, it is crucial to remember that the database is not the legal source (the Glossary). Disappointingly, the database has undergone recent changes and is less user-friendly now, but definitely still worth bookmarking. If you are looking for a specific ingredient, used the ‘Advanced Search’ page, and choose ‘Ingredient’ before you put your search term in – these tips will limit the number of ingredients found, and hopefully help you find the one that you are looking for.

The Annexes are:

II: Banned ingredients

III: Ingredients with limits

IV: Permitted colourants

V: Permitted preservatives

VI: Permitted UV filters

For Annexes IV, V and VI, only those ingredients listed can be used.

Purpose of an INCI name:

The INCI name serves several purposes in the cosmetic industry. It promotes uniformity and aids in the identification of ingredients, thereby reducing confusion among manufacturers, regulators, and consumers. For cosmetic brand owners, the primary purpose of the INCI name is to accurately label the ingredient list on product labels. The order of ingredients and the way their names should be written follow specific rules. While strictly speaking, only the INCI name should be used, many competent authorities, such as Trading Standards, accept the common name in brackets within the INCI name. For example, “Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil” is an acceptable format.

Composition of INCI names:

INCI names for some ingredients are straightforward, often closely resembling their common names (e.g. Glycerine / Glycerin). For botanical-based products, the INCI name typically derives from the plant’s botanical (Latin) name. In certain cases, the INCI name comprises three parts: the botanical name, the specific plant part used,
and the ingredient type. For instance, the essential oil ylang ylang has the INCI name “Cananga Odorata Flower Oil” – “Cananga Odorata” indicates the botanical name, “Flower” denotes the plant part used, and “Oil” specifies the ingredient type. However, some INCI names may omit the plant part if it is irrelevant or unnecessary, as seen with “Pelargonium Graveolens Oil” (geranium oil).

For colours, the format is CI nnnnn. CI stands for Colour Index and a random 5-digit number has been assigned to each colourant. The list of permitted colours is in Annex IV.

Limitations and verification:

It is important to recognize that INCI names may sometimes be outdated or refer to older, historical versions of botanical names. Additionally, botanical names may be associated with different common names and vice versa. In cases of ambiguity, it is crucial to confirm full identification with the ingredient supplier.

What to do if the INCI name cannot be found:

In the absence of an available INCI name, the CPSR (Cosmetic Product Safety Report) report can provide correct INCI names throughout the document, assisting in label preparation. When filling out submission forms, both the common name and INCI names are usually requested. While the INCI name can often be deduced from the common name, if unsure, the supplier’s documentation should be provided for verification. For mixtures or complex ingredients, trade names and supplier details should be included in the form.
In some instances, the INCI name might refer to different ingredients, such as different chemotypes of essential oils, necessitating confirmation through supplier documentation.

Legal use of ingredients not listed in the Glossary:

It is legal to use cosmetic ingredients even if they are not listed in the Glossary, as long as they are deemed ‘safe’. However, it is essential to ensure the safety and compliance of these ingredients with relevant regulations before incorporating them into cosmetic products.